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As we left Logrono wooden crosses have been woven into the chain link fence. Each represent something the pilgrim is leaving behind as they grow in their walk. Each walk is as unique as each pilgrim:
• He is from Virginia. He served in Vietnam. After the war he pursued engineering. Somewhere in there was a divorce where, bizarrely enough, he is proud he got custody of the tulip bulbs. He worked past retirement, but when it came nine months ago he suffered from the lack of structure. One day at a time...he walks. • He is from Scotland. He is retired. He carries a re-jigged guitar on his backpack. It weighs five kilos. He says, "No, it is not heavy....it lightens the load." It is still 6:30 am , but he belts out a rigorous version of Spirit in the Sky. One day at a time...he walks. • He sits by the lake. We join him for coffee. We are missing home today. We tell him we are from Listowel. Almost neighbors--he is from Ancaster. "Do you know Mark Tarbush?", he says. Seriously, does everyone know Mark? Huron College '75. One degree of separation almost felt like home today😄 One day at a time...we walk. We continued to wind our way through wine country. It is fascinating to watch the labourers fill the wagons with grapes as we walk, and walk, and walk....Hobbled my way to Ventosa. Apparently the cities name means windy and it is surely living up to its name. You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. You asked what a typical day looks like. We start just after sunrise--always a special part of the day. Then it is basically Walk/Eat/Sleep/Repeat one day after another. Of course there is quite a lot more eating with a huge dose of fun thrown in. Today we managed to stay just ahead of the rain but the wind was a challenge. Logrono is a wine region and we agreed we have never seen vines more abundant with grapes--the beauty of the countryside is astounding.
Some pilgrims are certain they know what they are to learn on their journey--until they realize that may not be their lesson at all! I am not even slightly confident of what my heart journey is, I just know that everyday I am appreciating what I learn from the lives of those I meet: • He is from Krakow Poland. He is proud of his country. He says unemployment is down and prosperity is up. He tells us we must visit and spend at least five days. This is his fifth Camino. He walked three with his wife. While they walked they prayed for their daughters who were struggling to have children. Now he has three grand babies. Gma stays back to help with the cherished grandchildren and he now walks alone as a prayer of thanks. • He dresses pretty snappy for a pilgrim. He is Spanish. He is an architect. We find this young man sketching in the ruins of the church of San Pedro in Viana. He shows me his drawings--exceptional. That is how he sees beauty...that is how he prays. • She stand behind a rickety table just outside of Logrono. Her mother Felisa, who died fifteen years ago, started the tradition of blessing every pilgrim that passes with figs, water, and love. Her stamp 'Higos, Agua y Amor' is sought after. Figs aren't in season but we felt her love and prayers as we received the mark in our credentials. We are in a big city tonight so our pilgrim's meal will instead be Dominos Pizza. Pretty excited. You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. Today was quite hot--definitely a sunscreen day. We found a place by the river, with just a slight breeze, to eat our lunch. While we snacked on our picnic we could see golden fields, green vineyards and red rock vistas. It was absolutely a perfect setting.
Most pilgrims have been walking for at least a week now. You start to wonder how you are going to survive five more weeks with your pack. The key is to lighten the load. Yesterday we saw a pair of jeans and a shirt neatly folded beside the path--clearly abandoned. Today we saw several abandoned boots. Extra pairs that weren't going to be carried one step more. Struggling, but wise pilgrims. A couple of pilgrims stories from today. One that ends in victory and one that will have to wait for another day to celebrate. • John Mcauley has given me permission to share his walk. He is a recently retired principal from Ireland. John's daughter Michele suffered from Meningitis as a first year university student in 2010. Michele is a survivor, but sadly many in the U.K. who contract Meningitis are not as fortunate. As a love offering of a papa to his daughter, and in support of Meningitis research, John has committed to trek 1000km on the Camino from Manciet in France (Le Puy Camino) through to Santiago in 40 days. An incredible commitment. Buen Camino John. (https://www.justgiving.com/fundraising/john-mcauley3) • She is young, and athletic with a positive attitude. We have met several times along the way. She is the hare--I am the tortoise. She planned to spend six months in Europe. The Camino...then WWOOF-ing (world wide opportunities on organic farms) .We met again today in Los Arcos. She has been diagnosed with extreme tendinitis. It has been recommended she fly home for treatment. A Sister at the medical centre told her that everything happens for a reason. It doesn't seem like that right now. "The journey is over for this hare", she says to me. No Way Girl--You are one FIESTY rabbit. Sometimes the journey starts when the walking stops. Buen Camino. There are 12 bunks in our room, but the hostel has an outdoor pool. About as warm as Lake Huron in July, but after a 20km walk it feels fabulous. You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. Why is it that every town we stay at ends at the top of a hill? I think the body is getting stronger--I made it all the way to the Albergue today without your Dad playing the Happy Dance on his phone.
We spent about an hour in Estella at the Palacio de Los Reyes de Navarra where the work of Spanish artist Museo Gustavo De Maeztu is displayed. His colour choices are vibrant and the Spanish countryside is featured even when the topic is Biblical. It definitely made an excellent change up during our morning. Another plus is that I got to use the Palace Servicios and have a pleasant and posh "sit down". We are about seven days in and this is all very real now; so I would like to take a few moments to provide you with a few examples, and thank, some of the great network of people that make this pilgrimage work: • She is from Michigan (almost neighbors) and is walking the Camino with her mother. They were both hesitant to ask their work for time off for a pilgrimage. Not only did human resources grant it, but they are following their posts daily and sending words of encouragement. Gracias A+ Employer por un Buen Camino. • The wine fountain is part of the ancient Monastery of Irache in Ayegui. There are two fountains for pilgrims, one dispenses wine and the other fresh water. Every day they fill the wine fountain with 100 L of wine. When we arrived at 11 a.m. thirsty pilgrims had depleted the stock--we were just as happy with the cold fresh water. So much fun...Gracias Monastery of Irache por un Buen Camino. • She is a hospitalero. How many times can you be asked, "Dónde está la farmacia?" and still answer with a smile? She manages every day--graciously. Her Albergue closes for the season in a week. Language is a barrier, but when asked what she is going to do she answers (in English), "Sleep for the Winter...you know...like a Bear!" Gracias Hospitaleros por un Buen Camino. We rest in the shadow of a castle in ruins upon the hill. You Are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. Day six and the blisters have arrived. Almost twenty-five kilometres that I wouldn't have passed up regardless of the foot issues. We walked on the rocky surfaces of the Roman Road and along smooth paths with the scent of wild anise. We saw bright red peppers, grapes, olives, and asparagus growing in the fields. We even took a bit of a detour to Eunate to see an octagonal church associated with the Knights Templar. The journey is tougher than we thought but even more rewarding than expected. Wherever we go we hear pilgrims exclaim "The Camino Provides".
• Back home her grandson has a collapsed lung. Like every modern Gma she has been keeping in touch through texts. She left her charger at the last Albergue. For some unknown reason, which is now evident, your Dad brought two chargers. It fit her phone! The Camino Provides. • She is a nurse from South Korea travelling alone. She freely discussed the situation with North Korea. Although they speak the same language and share a border she has never met someone from there. When we asked her to join us for dinner she said she had been missing her family so was very happy to join ours. The Camino Provides. • The climbs can be tough, but just when we run out of water we find a fountain. Hungry at the top of a hill? Someone is sitting under a tree selling nectarines. Just the other day a pilgrim shared her chocolate bar with me just before a tough descent--the good stuff...70% cocoa! The Camino Provides. Every day I wish you could all actually share the walk with us. You Are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. |
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Ray & Diane HomewoodSharing the Blessing of Travel Archives
January 2018
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