With the exception of the full moon we were in almost complete darkness. We knew the day promised to be strenuous so we started earlier than usual. The first five kilometres were deceptively cool and the descent gradual. Then we happened on Pilgrims hiring horses to take them up to O'Cebreiro. For future reference, if Pilgrims consider an ascent by horse or mule the hike is likely to be a challenge.
So, we shared the paths with other pilgrims, horses, farm equipment and herds of cattle. One foot in front of the other over and over and over again. It was after two before we reached the highest point at 1364 m. Another hour through the mountains before our Albergue. The view points were spectacular. One pilgrim, about my age, was asked if she was enjoying it. I loved her answer, "Enjoy is the wrong word...I feel on the verge of tears with every step...but I still feel so incredibly happy". The day didn't turn out quite as glorious for a couple of Pilgrims. At least two Pilgrims were removed from the hill by ambulance--one on IV for dehydration. The Pilgrim pipeline says they are doing fine. When I was wondering if I was crazy to be attempting this today I was reminded of a pilgrim story from a couple of days ago: • In 2016 Michael Curator was sixteen years old. He was from Wales. How exciting to be on a school cycling pilgrimage with twenty of his mates. They were averaging 80+ km a day. Near the end of the trip Michael collapsed. To the shock of his parents and community he didn't make it. If that were the end of the message we would only have tragedy. However, his memorial stone erected in the Irago Mountains sends only encouragement to live fully: "The boat is safer anchored at the port, but that is not the aim of boats" We are in Galicia now. Celtic music, thatched roofs, and a bit of a different dialect. Of course we haven't mastered "regular" Spanish yet; so it probably doesn't make that much difference. You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom.
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Ray & Diane HomewoodSharing the Blessing of Travel Archives
January 2018
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