In the town of Hospital de Orbigo we crossed the longest ancient bridge on the Camino. It boasts a legend from the 1400's that goes something like this: Guy loves Girl--Girl rejects Guy--Guy spends 30 days on the bridge whacking other guys--Guy goes to Santiago with his "honour restored"--Never gets the girl. We managed to picnic beside the bridge without getting the urge to smack anyone😄 Today was a lovely walk. I am sitting on the veranda of my Albergue soaking in the sun. Here is my favourite pilgrim story from yesterday:
• We have walked together many times before. Yesterday he wanted to talk about home. He was a partner in a successful start-up. His dream was to have an in-ground pool, two kids, and a house in suburban Montreal. He has two sons. He has the house and the in-ground pool. He also had 60+ hours of work, no time with his young family, and unhappiness. Six months ago he made a life changing decision--he sold to his partner and quit. After a few months his wife bought him the guide to the Camino--"Go figure it Out", she said. Has he? Well there is still a lot of Camino left, but at this point he has no idea where his career is headed. Is he happier? While walking he has remembered his first communion. At first, he laughs, he only remembered wearing a great little suit. Then, he started to remember what was in his heart. Now he knows he wants that for his children. So, yes he is happier....and he still keeps walking. Celebration today! Over 500 km walked. You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. Dear H.S. Friends, I hear you might be going to Medieval Times. Today I was on a real Medieval Bridge where knights fought battles. How cool is that? Sincerely, Flat S.
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STILL on the Meseta. Not everything is ancient ruins, medieval towns, and endless fields of crops already harvested--just almost everything😀 But this morning on our way out of Leon we stopped at something a little different. The church in La Virgin del Camino provides a 21st century take on stain glass design. As well, the apostles and kings are sculpted in a stylized way that incorporates the Camino shell. The symbol of a pilgrim. Loved It! Feeling great today and I did collect a few Camino stories, but I will save them for later--I want to share one from WAY back:
• He is Italian. His features favour St. Nicholas--almost as old with a little more grey and black in the beard. He does have a belly that jiggles when he laughs...and he laughs a lot. At first we think he belongs with the Albergue, but then we realize that just like us he is a pilgrim. When Dad struggles with a question he drags over a nice young fellow that speaks Italian, Spanish, and English. Next we see him heading off with a wrench to fix a leak in the shower. At dinner he sits at the head of the table appreciating more wine than I think is possible. He is so enjoying the meal that our host brings him a second plate. He treats us like family and he is the papa. He strips to his boxers, crawls into his bunk, and breaks out in a healthy snore. In the morning he sleeps through everyone packing. One pilgrim speculates that he might be dead...but NO the big bear awakens...rubs his belly and declares he has had a fabulous night's sleep. Last seen he was wobbling down the Camino path riding an almost gearless bike with his beard blowing in the wind. Was Papa Camino real? Or perhaps we were in the presence of a very unusual angel unaware. Well, I've washed out my smelling clothes on the washboard. They are hanging on the line. I'm just going to put my feet up and enjoy the sunshine. You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. Dear H.S. Friends, He-walks loves to pick the wild anise beside the road. The licorice smell really keeps you awake. Have you smelled anise before? Sincerely, Flat L We started our morning as the sun was rising--the air was just slightly crisp with Fall. I am missing the Fall leaf smell from home; so this was perfect. As we walked into Leon the area became more industrial. Fruit shops, mixed with car dealerships, mixed with tiny community parks where old men sat on benches exchanging stories and soaking in the sun. The body did 47 km in just over 36 hours so I am going to share just one pilgrim story before I get my Dominoes Pizza (big city treat) and head to bed early:
• She is from Estonia. We have met several times before. She joined us for Pilgrim's Dinner. She went to school when Estonia was part of the Soviet Union. She studied Russian at school and spoke Estonian at home. Now her children, three daughters, learn Estonian at school and study English and Russian to get better jobs. She also speaks German, French and some Spanish. She walked the Camino last year. Her feet were bad...she had to take the bus. She bought merino wool socks and hiking boots two sizes bigger and her husband has encouraged her to try again. She tells me her parents were divorced and she was raised by her father. I sense there is more tragedy to the story...I sense there is a brokenness. She has just lost two days of walking to fever and was afraid she would have to go home again. She said her spirits were low and she cried. I said I cry because my feet hurt--she laughs. I tell her the tears might help wash away her sadness. I sense she is on the edge of healing. After, she tells me, her husband is meeting her in Barcelona. It has been many years since they have done something like that together. She is beautiful already....as she speaks of her walk she becomes radiant. "As the thunder rolls...I barely hear Your whisper through the rain....“I’m with you”...And as Your mercy falls...I raise my hands and praise..." World class stain glass at the Leon Cathedral. Reflection upon reflection in the early evening light. The Albergue is exceptional. Our own bathroom and real towels. But, of course, in the morning we walk.... You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. Over 26 km and over 40 000 steps today. Still on the Meseta, which has a wonderful sameness about it. Just put your playlist on, keep your eyes open, and put one foot in front of the other. It is so flat that you can see towns miles away--Always more in the distance than they seem. Then there are those Camino moments that break the rhythm:
• It is 9:30 a.m.--We gather at the tables in front of the bar in the old town for a morning break. ABBA tunes pumping into the street. Rumour has it the churros are almost ready. We talk about our feet, our aches, and our blessings. Simultaneously we all spy a gorilla driving down the narrow street. He slides out of the tiny European car and apes that he needs bananas. The waitress passes a banana to Dad--who passes it out the window to me--who passes it to the gorilla. One happy gorilla--many entertained pilgrims. Finally unmasked the gorilla chats with Dad--he loves Canada, Drake, and the Beibs😀 I suspect this bit of performance art has played out many times, but for today's pilgrims it was just the spark we needed to carry on with a smile. A Gorilla Blessing--sure was--and we just keep walking.... • Many cyclists travel the Camino. Although their requirements are slightly different it is still a tough road. Those of us walking the way learn to enjoy their shouts of "Buen Camino" as they pass. Yesterday was a stark reminder that this journey can be dangerous for those who share the path. The stone simply read "Peregrino Santiago". Manfred Kress , German cyclist pilgrim 60, died on June 9, 1998 at Real Bercianos....and we just keep walking... Pretty basic Albergue tonight--12 bunks per room--part of the experience. Always appreciate the difference ear plugs can make for a good night's sleep. You Are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. Unbelievable--we have passed the centre of the Camino--over 400 km. Now it feels like we are walking toward home rather than away! We are still on the Meseta, which is kind of like walking the backroads of Perth County (only dustier) until you reach over 40 000 steps each day. What the Camino does have, that PC doesn't, is little hobbit houses. The sun was just rising as we entered Moratinos and spotted these wee dwellings carved into the side of the hill. They are actually Bodegas or little storage caves. But, I wonder, might Bilbo might still live there?😄 Another thing I wonder about is the motivation of pilgrims that walk the Camino REPEATEDLY:
• We are alone in a bar waiting for breakfast--only 15 minutes more until the croissants are fully baked. They arrive warm on the plate with soft, gooey chocolate sneaking out the sides. He comes in. He is clearly older than us. He carries an unusual staff. He tells us he buys the same staff every year from the same lady in Logrono and leaves it in Santiago before heading back to Ireland. "I know she knows I know it is made in China, but it is my tradition", he laughs. How many times? Fourteen since he retired. He says it keeps him sharp physically, mentally, and spiritually. Buen Camino. • We are eating again. Breakfast with fresh pressed orange juice. She is German. She has walked the Camino every year since 2007--but only part of it. She walks 15 days every year. She started from her small town in Germany. Next year her walk will take her all the way to Santiago. She will have walked over 3000 km. She says that each year it focuses her. Her service with the Catholic Church is important to her. Buen Camino. Well, today I said goodbye to my hiking shoes. It is clear that the swelling in my feet will not decrease enough in the next three weeks if I keep walking.They will reach Santiago before me by mail! Buen Camino my instruments of torture--see you when I get there. You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. Dear H.S. Friends, Couldn't resist a little trip to the roof of the Bodega. Do you think it would be a cool place to hang out? Sincerely, Flat S Yesterday was rough--not the path--we were the problem. Dad lost his character buff (you know how he loves that buff)--Dad found his character buff. We took a wrong turn and had to retrace our steps....A BIG Camino downer......and the list of petty problems goes on! But then we were in Carrion at the Albergue supported by the Madres Clarisas. Santa Clara is credited with creating the first Nativity Set. Attached to the Albergue is a museum with over 1000; some stirring, some tacky, but all delightful. Let me tell you about some more of our best day-changers: • I arrive limping--the duct tape on my glasses has seen better days. Dad is bleeding from a head wound he achieved walking into a low door way. Our host approaches--shuffling. Two different coloured socks and two different flip-flops adorn his feet. His grey track pants are cut off Capri style. "Ray-mund from Canada?", he asks. Apparently Ray-mund was a very famous movie hero in the 1940's, or so we learn. He and a Dad are instant friends. We pay our 7 Euros each. He leads us to the windowsill where they keep the single door key for everyone to use. Then past the dorms up the stone staircase. Tucked away is a small room for two with a tiny window poking through the thick walls into the courtyard. A room of our own--with a real door and our own lights and electrical outlet--a real Camino blessing. • We call him Mr. Israel. He walks fast but often stops to talk. He is twenty-four. We have connected, but today was different. "Hot day, but I can't roll up my sleeves--just got a tattoo", he offers. Of course I am curious. He briefly pushes up his sleeve to show me "live;". He wonders if I know about the semi-colon. Yes, we have the semicolon campaign in a Canada too. He tells me that even though he is young he has had many physical and emotional struggles. I ask if the Camino helps. "Yes and No--somethings are clearer and some struggles are new ones", he says. He tells me he didn't want to put a word after the semicolon so that he could change it as his strength grows. Dad suggests, "Live Fully". He thinks that is quite good but that right now he is still working on "Live; on". Mr. Israel, our wish for you is that you can live intentionally and love extravagantly. Blessings. Allegedly St Francis of Assisi once stayed where we did last night. Which reminds me--Final shout-out Blessing of the day is for Tyler Schaefer (and Mary Smith). Your duet, Instrument of Peace, is at the top of our Camino playlist and is becoming somewhat of our anthem each and every day. The gift of music😄 You are Always in My Prayers. Love Mom. |
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Ray & Diane HomewoodSharing the Blessing of Travel Archives
January 2018
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